Editing My Experience With The 723

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But the story here is about “Big Bertha”.  I decided I want to design a modern version of the Jensen 990 and I might as well make it able to operate at ±36V.  To do this effectively I needed a suitable power supply.  I built one using two 36V transformers in series.  I regulated it with a pair of 723s and 20A Darlington transistors.  Here is the schematic:[[Dual 723 Regulators 7 to 22 V.jpg]]  I don’t plan on drawing anywhere near that amount of current, I just had them on hand.  In fact everything I used to build “Big Bertha” was residing in drawers and boxes at my shop.  (One of the design goals was to make it without spending any money.)
 
But the story here is about “Big Bertha”.  I decided I want to design a modern version of the Jensen 990 and I might as well make it able to operate at ±36V.  To do this effectively I needed a suitable power supply.  I built one using two 36V transformers in series.  I regulated it with a pair of 723s and 20A Darlington transistors.  Here is the schematic:[[Dual 723 Regulators 7 to 22 V.jpg]]  I don’t plan on drawing anywhere near that amount of current, I just had them on hand.  In fact everything I used to build “Big Bertha” was residing in drawers and boxes at my shop.  (One of the design goals was to make it without spending any money.)
  
Actually the unregulated supply is around ±56V.  This is beyond the 723's input voltage limit.  I could have made floating regulators (more on those later), but I decided to try “amplified zeners” instead.  I came across the “amplified zener” in “The Power Supply Handbook” by the editors of 73 magazine.  I’ve used it over the years, when I’d get stuck for a solution.  It has several clever ideas that have proved very useful, the amplified zener being one of them.  Basically you take a zener diode and a transistor and connect them so the zener’s cathode is at the transistor base, and the transistor collector is the zener’s anode.  No resistor needed as long as you avoid the knee region of the zener. Here is the schematic: [[Dual Amplified Zeners.jpg]]   
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Actually the unregulated supply is around ±56V.  This is beyond the 723's input voltage limit.  I could have made floating regulators (more on those later), but I decided to try “amplified zeners” instead.  I came across the “amplified zener” in “The Power Supply Handbook” by the editors of 73 magazine.  I’ve used it over the years, when I’d get stuck for a solution.  It has several clever ideas that have proved very useful, the amplified zener being one of them.  Basically you take a zener diode and a transistor and connect them so the zener’s cathode is at the transistor base, and the transistor collector is the zener’s anode.  No resistor needed as long as you avoid the knee region of the zener.[[Dual Amplified Zeners.jpg]]  I used this trick to knock the unregulated supply down to around ±38V (the 723 max input is 40V).  I have these squarish heat sinks that can hold TO3 devices and I stacked 4 of them together; 2 on top of 2, so my amplified zeners and the Darlington pass devices are contained in an area that is the perfect size for a 5" fan, should I ever need to draw so much current that things get warm.  So far that hasn’t happened.  I can adjust the output from around 12V to just over 30V.  I know it isn’t up to the ±36V of the MCI JH500, but I decided that wasn’t really needed.  If someone wants an op amp to handle that, I’ll use the OPA544.
I used this trick to knock the unregulated supply down to around ±38V (the 723 max input is 40V).  I have these squarish heat sinks that can hold TO3 devices and I stacked 4 of them together; 2 on top of 2, so my amplified zeners and the Darlington pass devices are contained in an area that is the perfect size for a 5" fan, should I ever need to draw so much current that things get warm.  So far that hasn’t happened.  I can adjust the output from around 12V to just over 30V.  I know it isn’t up to the ±36V of the MCI JH500, but I decided that wasn’t really needed.  If someone wants an op amp to handle that, I’ll use the OPA544.
 
  
 
I haven’t really had a chance to put “Big Bertha” to the test.  Mostly I’ve used her to power breadboard circuits at around ±18V.  This is what Amek and SSL consoles operate at and those are what my remaining clients have.  The computer revolution put most of the recording studios in Honolulu out of business.
 
I haven’t really had a chance to put “Big Bertha” to the test.  Mostly I’ve used her to power breadboard circuits at around ±18V.  This is what Amek and SSL consoles operate at and those are what my remaining clients have.  The computer revolution put most of the recording studios in Honolulu out of business.

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