OpenCircuits - User contributions [en]

Supplier

66.216.226.89 — Sun, 17 Oct 2010 00:07:22 GMT

66.216.226.89: /* Smaller and niche suppliers */

== Distributors and suppliers ==

{{mergefrom|Supplier Quick Reference}}

[[russ_hensel]] I propose to reorganize this a bit by alphabetizing the suppliers withing category and moving comments about individual suppliers to that supplier .. register objections in the next few days, silence will be taken as consent, ok?
... In reverse alphabetical order, Z to A.

Even if you can find the perfect part, sometimes you can't find anyone who is willing to sell you one. Here is some information on [[components|component]] suppliers.

== Giant Catalogs ==

[[Image:Digikey-Logo.gif|150px|Digikey]] [[Digikey]]
[[Image:Mouser-Logo.png|150px|Mouser]] [[Mouser]]
[[Image:Farnell_logo.gif|150px|Farnell]] [[Farnell]]

=== General ===

These guys have huge catalogs and an immense selection of parts, yet are still willing to sell things in onseies-and-twosies to hobbyists who can't claim to be prototyping something that'll sell a million units next year. Digi-Key actually got its start in the ham radio market, selling digital keyers.

I ([[Wiml]]) find that Digi-Key is the place to go for digital stuff, microcontrollers, and the like. For discretes and analog parts, Mouser is usually cheaper and has a better selection. Neither company has a minimum order, but of course they do have shipping and handling fees which make small orders impractical.

I, myself (who?) appear to have found that [[Jameco]] is good for small quantities of a fairly common part.

I called up Digi-Key to see if I could alter an order I had just placed before it got fulfilled. My order was already far enough along that they couldn't stop it. I believe the phrase was "too far gone". That speaks well of their order fulfillment process. I hear Mouser should be in there too, but I've never had a compelling reason to use them.

=== Digi-Key ===
[[Digikey]]
=== Farnell ===
[[Farnell]]

=== Mouser ===
[[Mouser]]

== Mid-size Suppliers ==

===Allied Electronics===
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/logo_allied.png
[http://www.alliedelec.com/ Allied Electronics]
Honestly I'm not sure if this is a mid-size or large distributor (how are we to tell, anyway?) Allied tends to deal more with "heavy duty" electrical parts (wiring, relays, electromechanical, etc. . .) rather than electronics. However, I've noticed that they do have some suppliers that Mouser/DigiKey don't have in terms of electronics components.

=== BG Micro ===
BG Micro http://bgmicro.com/ has been around for a long time.
Some good deals on used surplus equipment.

=== Jameco ===
http://www.jameco.com/wcsstore/Jameco/images/jamecoLogo.gif
[http://jameco.com/ Jameco]
's catalogs have been getting fatter recently and their prices are good for common parts. Their Jameco ValueBrand parts are often much cheaper than the competition. (I have yet to notice the difference, personally -mdwebster) Jameco tends to focus on generic and older parts, where the giant supplier tend to focus on newer brand name parts. Jameco has a decent selection of cheap tools.

For those living in the San Francisco bay area, particularly on the peninsula, Jameco has a will-call option. You can specify it when you choose shipping and then pick up the parts yourself in an hour or two, avoiding shipping charges. They are located just off highway 101 in Belmont, CA. You can also just drop in without placing an order first, and they'll pull they parts while you wait. Very convenient, if you happen to live nearby.

=== JDR Microdevices ===
JDR Microdevices
http://www.jdr.com/
has been around for a long time.
They seem to be trying to get rid of the last few ICs and prototyping tools they have in stock and switching to desktop PC subassemblies.

===Newark===
http://www.newark.com/images/en_US/logo_nio.gif
[http://newark.com/ Newark]
My most recent "Newark in one" catalog is even thicker than my most recent Digikey catalog. ''(The "in one" motto and the swirly logo look identical to the Farnell logo. Is there some kind of connection?)''

Newark usually has just about every odd semiconductor you might need in stock. Their shipping tends to be rather expensive, however (be prepared, as they won't give you a shipping quote until after you order, just like every other distributor), and they seem to really not like small orders, in my experience.

Newark InOne, Farnell InOne, and MCM InOne are all electronics distributors owned by the InOne Company.

===Pricewatch===
Pricewatch is good for locating certain computer gear at its version of the best price. Froogle is sort of the same thing, but without the seedy side filtered out.

===Radio Shack===
Radio Shack is OK if you need a common part NOW, but expect to pay probably 10 times the mail order price. In the past couple of years (2005-2006), I've noticed many Radio Shacks have ceased carrying ANY electronics parts. You're most likely to find solder, wire, switches, led's, and project boxes. The selection of transistors or IC's are poor to nonexistent.
If you have a Fry's in your area, they have a much better selection, but their component prices are not much better then RS. Unless you need a part immediately, you'll be much better off getting it mail order.

=== Apex Electronics ===

http://www2.apexelec.co.nz/
(in New Zealand)

== Smaller and niche suppliers ==

[[Anykits]] (http://www.anykits.com/) Large variety of kits for motor control, audio & lighting control, timers, RF modules, protocol/sensor interfaces etc..very very budget friendly :)And the kits are amazing in quality.

[[Action Electronics]] (http://www.action-electronics.com/) Good place for soldering suppies, hand tools, small components.[NOTE: Unfortunately out of business, checked on 10/16/2010]

[[Adafruit Industries]] (http://www.adafruit.com/) DIY kits and AVR programmers. Their open source AVR programmer usbtinyusb is especially recommended. Ok service and shipping. LadyAda has be active int the TV begone and Cell Phone begone community uprising.

[[All Electronics]] (http://www.allelectronics.com) Corp. needs to even out their stuff a bit. Either specialize in a few types of parts or be more even across the board. Spark Fun Electronics appears to be trying to do it right. It is still weird that I can't just order a bunch of 0603 resistors from them. Seems like a no-brainer.

[[Alltronics]] (http://www.alltronics.com/) is similar to All Electronics in what they carry. Fairly sure they're different companies with annoyingly similar names.

[[American Science and Surplus]] (http://www.sciplus.com/) has a little bit of everything. Rubber spiders, speakers, prisms, lab equipment, electromechanical timers, Slinkies, motors, switches, fake vomit, glow-in-the-dark pencils, radio-controlled toy rats... Good selection of fans and motors, and an oddball attitude to boot. If you're near Chicago, their retail store is even weirder.
American Science & Surplus
[http://www.sciplus.com/recommend.cfm?recommendid=11013&jump=index%2Ecfm%3Fstart%3D1 seems to have good prices on breadboards].

[[dipmicro electronics]] (http://www.dipmicro.com/store/) Parts, chips, microcontrollers, etc. Ship from Niagara Falls, Canada.

[[Electronics Goldmine]] (http://www.goldmine-elec.com/) is another surplus warehouse. Don't expect to find any particular part, but they have good prices on what they do carry.

[[Fastcomponents]] (http://www.fastcomponents.co.uk/) They only have packs, but the packs are good value.

[[Futurlec.com]] (http://www.futurlec.com) I've been very happy with Futurlec. Their prices are outstanding, especially on value packs. Their customer service isn't stellar, but in the end they've always resolved any problems that I've had. They ship from Australia/Thailand, but their shipping prices are reasonable & the shipping is quick enough.

[[Logical Systems]] (http://www.logicalsys.com/) IC Programming addapters. Surface Mount to DIP, many more than I thought there were.

[[microcontrollershop.com]] (http://microcontrollershop.com) - Large selection of development boards, programmers, debuggers for microcontroller projects. All major architectures ARM, 8051, PIC, Atmel AVR, TI MSP430, Freescale HC08, HC12, etc.

[[MPJA.com]] (http://www.mpja.com) - prototyping tools, components. Not a huge selection, but prices are low. If you order something that comes with an instruction sheet that was translated into English, the directions may be hard to decipher due to poor translation, possibly from Chinese. They ship from Florida.

[[Pololu]] (http://www.pololu.com) - Specializes in robotics. Also offers a nice (low minimums) laser cutting / stencil service.

[[ProtoStack]] (http://www.protostack.com/) Stackable prototyping boards including standard breadboard layouts and microcontroller boards.

[[Saelig]] (http://www.saelig.com) Test equipment, circuit modules, special-purpose chips. Target the engineering market more than the hobbyist/fanatic, nevertheless stock many affordable things.

[[Surplus Sales]] (http://www.surplussales.com/) more exotic surplus parts.

[[Surplus Shed]] (http://www.surplusshed.com/) carries a some electronics and lots of optics. (Prisms, microscopes, etc)

[[Sparkfun]] (http://www.sparkfun.com) Specializes in microcontrollers and robotics. They also have nice AVR tutorials.

[[TVI Electronics]] (http://www.tvielectronics.com) Manufacturer of intelligent LCD controllers for Optrex F-51320, F-51553, F-51852 and F-51854 displays, worldwide supplier of touch screens and touchscreen controllers.

[[West Florida Components]] (http://www.westfloridacomponents.com) Supplier of electronic components, parts and supplies. They have no minimum purchase requirement and their shipping is very reasonable ($3.50 for any order up to $15.00). Their selection seems to be growing from years past.

[[Wzmicro]] (http://www.wzmicro.com) Provides low cost and high quality electronics components, hard to find and discontinued ICs and many other parts.

== PCB manufacturers ==

For companies that supply a PCB customized to your design, see [[PCB Manufacturers]].

== Comments ==

I want to see some competition in the micro dev/app board market. I just paid approximately 34.95 + its share of the shipping for a 32 bit ARM microcontroller on a PCB and with a USB device port on one end and a series of header sockets on the other. If that is considered cheap, then this is never going to take off.

I realize that other authors will have different opinions than I, and that this entry is probably not going to remain as it is for long. Come on, everybody. These comments do not reflect the opinions of Open Circuits. They are only my own. Add yours.

I personally stay away from app boards unless I absolutely need to use them because of the price. Also the components tend to not be in sockets, so if you blow a pin or two on that $100 app board, you need to replace the entire board as opposed to a $5 microcontroller. Unfortunatly, many of the better parts are only available in SMT packages. [[User:Mzoran|Mzoran]] 15:30, 16 December 2007 (PST)

Competition?
I see that there is a different [http://parallax.com/Store/Microcontrollers/PropellerDevelopmentBoards/tabid/514/CategoryID/73/List/0/Level/a/ProductID/423/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName%2cProductName 32 bit microcontroller on a PCB for $20 + shipping]. It has a SMT microcontroller, but I see the same microcontroller is also available in a DIP package for easy solderless-breadboard prototyping.
--[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] 22:51, 30 December 2007 (PST)

----

I've had great experiences with [[Mouser]] and [[Jameco]] for smallish orders (<$200). I've also had several good experiences with [[SparkFun]]. I now avoid Fry's. In addition to their horrible return policies, their stock is very random and prices aren't very good.

----

My personal experiance with Surplus Sales was very good. I would highly recommend them for anyone that needs a blower motor, hydraulic pump, etc. Good prices, good service.

----

IguanaLabs ( http://www.iguanalabs.com/ ) seems to be very hobbyist-friendly. They have a very small selection of parts, but it includes the lowest-cost [[breadboard]]s I've seen.

Please note that IguanaLabs will be closing its doors for good on August 11th, 2007.

----

See also the list at http://techref.massmind.org/techref/supplies.htm .

----

Don't forget to check [http://www.ebay.com ebay] if you're looking for fairly generic items. There are a number of suppliers that ship cheap components from China, plus a few who ship from within the US. I've gotten great prices on character LCD displays, pin headers, SMD LEDs, and PIC microcontrollers, among others.

[http://ledshoppe.com/ ledshoppe] has good prices on LEDs (all pin-through-hole). They don't have any other components, but they do have dirt cheap bluetooth dongles and SD card readers that may be of interest. Shipped from China, shipping is free. Usually arrives in the US in about a week, never had a problem with them.

----

I'm not sure where this should go, but I find http://www.findchips.com to be ''very'' useful for finding parts. You just enter a part number (or part of one) and it will do a real-time check with several suppliers including Mouser, Newark, Digi-Key and Jameco, and tell you who has it in stock and at what prices (in most cases - some suppliers just say "call for price"). This one site can save hours of shopping around. [[User:KeithHearn|KeithHearn]] 17:48, 20 March 2008 (PDT)

''Thank you, Keith. The Findchips website could save me a significant amount of time. The http://octopart.com/ website is similar -- once you know the exact part number, it checks with several suppliers and tells you who has it in price and for what price. --[[User:DavidCary|DavidCary]] 20:49, 14 November 2009 (UTC)''

----

Should comments be moved to discussion and a consensus formed around factual information regarding suppliers?

== Local electronics and surplus stores ==
=== Surplus ===

Sometimes it's difficult to tell from a picture on the web if something is really the right size.
Local electronics stores let you see that it's exactly the right size,
and often have a [[bargains]] bin.
See [http://mightyohm.com/wiki/resources:surplus the MightyOhm Wiki Surplus] for a list of local Surplus Electronics Stores, plus some Swapmeets and Fleamarkets.

== other supplier reviews ==

* [http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Suppliers LinuxCNC: Suppliers]
* [http://www.robotroom.com/links.html David Cook Robot Room™]
* [http://www.ladyada.net/resources/procure/partsdistributors.html LadyAda: Finding Parts Distributors]
* [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Embedded_Systems/Where_To_Buy Wikibooks: Where to buy parts for embedded systems]
* [http://www.eham.net/reviews/products/19 eHam.net: Electronic Parts Suppliers reviews]
* [http://chiphacker.com/questions/2467/good-distributors-for-electronic-components "Good distributors for electronic components?"] discussion at Chiphacker.
* [http://chiphacker.com/questions/627/good-motor-supplier "good motor supplier?"] discussion at Chiphacker

[[category:suppliers]][[Category:Components]]

Salvage Parts and Sources

66.216.226.89 — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:37:20 GMT

66.216.226.89: /* Microwave Ovens */

For ideas on different ways to use some parts see [[Salvage Ideas]]. You may also find [[Free From Salvage]] useful. Got an idea, please add it.

== Parts -- Where to Find Them ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-valign="top"
! What
! Comments
! Where

|-valign="top"
|Beeper
|Cheap sound effects, some need ac drive others just dc.
|
*Mother boards
*Microwave ovens
*Modems

|-valign="top"
|Caps: Electrolytic
|You can get tons of these from most devices, usually marked with voltage and capacitance, they are pretty much ready to use. Leads usually just long enough to go through a board.
|
*Many different devices.

|-valign="top"
|Cases Enclosures
|
Can be very useful, may want to replace or overlay the front panel. Sometimes use a different side of the case as a new front.
|
*Anything in a useful case.
*Altoid Tins [http://www.instructables.com/id/MintyBoost!---Small-battery-powered-USB-charger/ MintyBoost! - Small battery-powered USB charge] [http://www.instructables.com/id/Altoids-Amp/ Altoids Amp]
*Tea Tins [http://www.instructables.com/id/Tea-Connector-for-Serial-RS232-Cables/ Tea Connector for Serial RS232 Cables]
*Network equipment like hubs and switches for rack mount cases

|-valign="top"
|Crystals
|Are the frequencies useful, can you figure out how to drive them?
|
*Computer devices
*Radio receivers

|-valign="top"
|Diodes: Full Wave Bridges and Power
|Nice for your own power supply.
|
*Many different devices.
*Power Supplies

|-valign="top"
|
Diodes: Small Signal
|
Usually have leads that are so short that they are not worth bothering with.
|
*Diodes are cheap, you might just buy a grab-bag instead and get long-legged basic types and zeners. Scavenge rectifier bridges.

|-valign="top"
|Headers and Jumpers
|Useful as headers or to adapt parts to prototyping boards. You can also often find cables with plugs that plug into the headers very nicely. Also true of RC hobby servos.
|
*Computer mother boards.
*Computer expansion cards
*Some stores may carry massive bags cheaply so this may not be an interesting target.

|-valign="top"
|Fans: Small
|Do not blow your budget, get a free fan.
|
*Computers
*Power Supplies

|-valign="top"
|Ferrites
|Rewind for use as small [[SMPS]] transformer cores due low hysteris losses.
|
* CRT monitors
* Power Supplies
* Cable "bulbs"

|-valign="top"
|Hall Effect Sensors
|Can be used to sense magnetic fields or to measure current.
|
*Lots of CD Spindle motors seem to have them mounted at the edge of the rotor ( more or less ).
*Old VCR's

|-valign="top"
|Heat Sinks
|Keep your power components cool.
|
*PSU's, including PC SMPS
*power amplifiers
*VCR's

|-valign="top"
|Infra Red Receiver
|Useful for IR remote control projects. Usually tuned to about 40 kHz and have digital output.
For pin out see [[Infra Red Receiver Pinout]]
|
*Any equipment with with a remote control
*VCR, DVD players
*Some cordless headphones

|-valign="top"
|Jacks: RCA Phono
|Nice for audio and some video.
|
*Audio equipment and many computer mother boards.
*Old PA, mixing and recording equipment

|-valign="top"
|Jacks: Miniature Phono Jacks
|Use for audio or low power.
|
*Audio equipment. Sometimes on computer mother boards, sound cards and CD drives

|-valign="top"
|Jacks: USB
|Handy because there are so many usb devices out there, make an IPod charger.
|
*Computer mother boards
*Broken USB mice and keyboards yield complete cables

|-valign="top"
|Jacks: 9 Pin ( serial )
|Often useful particularly if you harvest cables from old mice.
|
*Computer Mother boards
*Old computer cases, serial addon cards, modems

|-valign="top"
|Jacks: Key Board Jacks
|May be useful particularly if you harvest cables from old keyboards.
|
*Computer mother boards
*Dead keyboards for complete cables
*5-pin DIN type is also used for MIDI

|-valign="top"
|Laser
|Please be careful.
|
*Printers, CD ROM, dvd players
*Laser pointers

|-valign="top"
|LED: visible
|Very, sometimes leads too short, but usually ok. Computers often have several with plug in leads which can be really handy. Mount 2 pins from a header ( also salvage ) to plug in.
|
*Many devices, often on a control panel separate from the main circuit board
*PC cases
*Network equipment have tons of blinkenlights

|-valign="top"
|LED: Infra Red
|Usefully for IR remote control projects. Note that they can be used as receivers as well.
|
*Remote controls.
*Some wireless headphone transmitters

|-valign="top"
|LCD Displays
|Sometimes useless, too hard to find out the specs. Many are Hitachi compatible if you can find/trace the pinout.
|
*Laser printers
*Alarm control panels and the like
*ISDN modems or other network equipment
*Smart UPS

|-valign="top"
|Low Voltage Power Supplies
|Wall warts that may come with devices. Some other devices have power supplies as separate components. May want to supplement with a three terminal regulator, which you can also get from salvage.
|
*Computers.
*Printers occasionally have nice, beefy, 20-40V, even AC psu's
*Christmas lights for 24VAC
*Obsolete cellphone chargers if you find a graveyard of them

|-valign="top"
|Motors: DC
|Nice if you need a motor and every robot needs many, see also steppers.
|
*VCRs, Tape Recorders
*Printers ( often stepper motors, but sometimes DC with encoders )
*CD/DVD drives
*Power (cordless) tools

|-valign="top"
|Motors: Stepper
|Can be real useful for low power devices. Can be expensive to buy.
|
*Printers, some old floppy and hard drives.

|-valign="top"
|
Motors: Brushless
|These are hard to drive and often built into the circuit boards. May be most useful for the magnets in them. Sometimes you can find and use the hall effect sensor. Somewhere I have seen a posting on how to use them as alternators, basically putting a diode on each winding to bring out DC.
|
*CD and VCR drives and players

|-valign="top"
|Magnets
|More pictures on your fridge, Hold down tools on cast iron in the shop. Often quit strong and/or of odd configuration.
|
*Hard drives, brushless motors.
*Microwave oven magnetron has 2 nice donut magnets.

|-valign="top"
|Potentiometers: trim
|Can be useful, but new ones are not very expensive.
|
*Audio equipment.
*VCR's are full of them

|-valign="top"
|Relays
|Useful to go from logic levels to 120 vac. Coil is often 12v or 24 volts, use with a transistor low side switch ( for example ) to interface with logic levels
|
*Microwave ovens.
*Modems
*Audio amplifiers

|-valign="top"
|Resistors: Power
|Useful Many different devices but usually not computers.
|
*Power Supplies

|-valign="top"
|
Resistors; ¼, ½ Watt
|Usually useless, leads too short.
|
*Too much effort for plain types, better buy an assortment

|-valign="top"
|Ribbon Cables and Sockets
|I ( [[russ_hensel]] ) have found a bunch or applications that may not be obvious, I will write it up soon, or contact me.
|
*Computers
*VCR's, especially some Betamax

|-valign="top"
|Sockets: DIP
|[[russ_hensel]] ) I sometimes cut these up in various ways and epoxy to .1 inch perf. board to get special sockets for LED arrays....
|
*Computers and many other components.
*Flimsy and may not be worth the hassle

|-valign="top"
|Stepper Driver Chips
|Very useful if you can find some of the standard chips, I have found .....
|
*Printers and Devices with stepper motors.

|-valign="top"
|
Surface mount devices
Useless for many, hard to remove, small to work with. Some of you may have figured SMT out, more power to you. Hint: hot air may be just the ticket.
|
Yes
|
*Everywhere today
*Computers, hard drives, expansion cards

|-valign="top"
|Three terminal regulators
|Often standard parts, sometimes you can take the whole power supply as a unit
|
*Many different devices
*Computer PSU's often have a few (7905)

|-valign="top"
|Transistors: Power
|Often useful, often can find specification from part number. This may help ( anyone have one who can do a review? ) [http://www.m3electronix.com/kit.html M3 Semiconductor Analyzer Features] Here is a review [http://www.io.com/~n5fc/m3_sa.htm N5ESE builds the M-Cubed Electronix Semiconductor Analyzer] and [http://www.al7fs.us/AL7FS6M3Analyzer.html M3 Electonix Semiconductor Analyzer Built by AL7FS]
|
*Audio equipment, TV's
*Power supplies

|-valign="top"
|Transistors: Power MOSFET
|Extremely handy, often can find specification from part number.
|
*Power supplies

|-valign="top"
|
Transistor: Small Signal
|
Some use, but may be hard to identify which are useful as many use house part numbers. For japanese transistors, add "2S" in from of the code. A few hours work gave me a couple of bucks worth of parts [[russ_hensel]], probably not worth it.
|
*Many different devices but usually not computers.

|-valign="top"
|Transformers Inductors – Misc.
|Test with ohm meter and audio oscillator.
|
*TVs Audio Receivers.
*Power supplies

|-valign="top"
|Transformer Flyback transformer
|Useful for high voltage – but can be dangerous.
|
*TV's
*Some SMPSU's

|-valign="top"
|Transformer: Line to Low voltage
|Useful for making power supplies.
|
*Audio equipment particularly receivers.
*Computer peripherals but not computers.


|}




== Sources -- What Can You Get Out Of Them ==

=== Cellular phones ===
Full of incredibly tiny electronics, but for automated manufacture, many are in modules joined by contact springs instead of solder or connectors so many parts come right off. Small speakers, mic, power connector, SMD bulk caps occasionally, tiny eccentric weight vibration motor. A few models have display modules you can find specs for.

=== Computers ===
Power supply is useful as a unit, or can be taken apart for transformer, caps, diodes, and similar. Many have a filtered input connector which is rather valuable. There are usually some LED and switches on the end of wires that plug into header blocks. They also may have CD DVD Floppy Drives see separate discussion. The connecting wires are often useful, sometimes taking the connectors off the mother board makes them more useful. Individual boards may be useful as they are. The mother board is not usually useful for its chips, most are too small and specialized for much use. Crystals may be found, not sure if frequencies are useful. AT-era PC's often had D-connectors of both sexes on ribbon cables and peripherals have matching cables. Some have RTC modules, others have CR2032 lithium batteries. The big BIOS flash/eprom may be recyclable. Certain vintages have nice SRAM chips as cache. SCSI and other smart controllers have serial eeprom's for settings. Old ethernet cards and cables yield 50-ohm coaxial wiring. Loads and loads of screws in the case.

=== Digital cameras ===
Card slot if you can get it out. Battery, contacts and charger. Switching regulators. Very nice displays but hard to use. Be on the lookout for EL backlights, though, if you can power them. Nice smooth squares of very white light. Optics of varying types, connectors if you can get them out. Marvels of miniaturization and cramped-space engineering worth looking at in any case.

=== Floppy Drives ===
Often have stepper motor and Brush less motors. The old 5 ¼ drives are most likely to have reasonable power steppers. most of the chips then to be too small and specialized for much use. The 3.5" power connector is reasonably easy to remove with most equipment.

=== Hard Drives ===
Pretty platters, spacers and stator coils, strong magnets, odd motor or two.

=== Tape Drives ===
Rare. May contain springs under considerable tension! Some have beefy power components. SCSI terminators have resistor packs for picking.

=== Microwave Ovens ===
Make sure you discharge high voltage capacitor prior to salvage, if you do not know how to do this find out first. High voltage transformer ( dangerous ), high voltage capacitor and diode. Good magnets in the magnetron tube. Lots of micro switches. Small motor, motorized fan.

=== Printers ===
Often have stepper motors. Plugs, jacks, power transistors, diodes. Gears, shafts and other mechanical components. Control panels may have led's and push button switches. Many laser printers have standard type LCD modules. Many inkjets have nice big external power supplies.

=== Stereos, boom boxes, radios ===
Plugs, jacks, power transistors, diodes. Audio power IC (TDA2030 is very common). Transformers and power supplies, sometimes symmetrical +-. VFD modules.

=== TV ===
May not be a good salvage candidate: There are high voltage dangers and dangers from imploding picture tubes. Also when you are done there is often a disposal fee as the picture tube contains a few pounds of lead. Do not dispose of irresponsibly.

=== VCR ===
DC motors, plugs, jacks, power transistors, diodes. VFD modules, neon lamps on few models.

== Salvage Techniques ==

Use a propane torch to salvage components from printed circuit boards ( from russ_hensel ).

First, this technique can be dangerous, in addition to possible burning yourself or burning your house down the components can emit dangerous fumes including fumes from the lead solder. Make sure you are operating carefully in a very well ventilated ( perhaps outdoor ) area. If you are not an adult have an adult approve of your procedure.

I use a propane touch with about a liter container of propane often used for plumbing work. I take the board and clamp it vertically in a vise. The torch is adjusted for about a 1 inch flame. Play the flame over the component leads while pulling on the component with a pair of pliers ( have several sizes available ). Work the component out and drop in a box. Move on to the next components. Some components can be pulled out with your fingers if you do not mind occasional burns, some can be pull out with your fingers but will burn you almost every time. If a component has heavy duty leads and light duty leads ( as some transistors that are connected to heat sinks do ) heat the heavy duty leads first. If the components has much plastic near the board ( for example ) headers, you may destroy the part. Practice will improve your technique. Keep your head out of the fumes. Try not to set the board on fire too often. When you do make sure you put it out. Do not leave the site of the work until the boards are cool. Even surface mount components can be removed, apply heat from the side away from the component, this will often ignite the board. This technique is at least an order of magnitude faster than using a soldering iron. Some people replace the torch with a paint removing heat gun, I have tried this but like the torch better.

Do the parts work after heating this way: for me almost always.

Using a Desoldering station and/or tool is a much better idea. These are available cheap on EBay.

[[category:Salvage]][[Category:Components]]

Techniques

66.216.226.89 — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:28:05 GMT

66.216.226.89: /* Theory */

There are a wide variety of techniques used in electronics.

== Printed circuit board design/fabrication ==
=== Overview ===
=== Software Design ===
See [[#Software_design_tools|Software Design Tools]] below.

==== Step by Step by using Software Design Tool ====
*make sure the dimension and shape of PCB
*make sure the size and location of Via for PCB stand
*Make sure each components footprint.
*each components are placed on suitable place by put on a hardcopy of simulation PCB
*All components get enough clearance between them.
*Silkscreen layout is confirmed.
*PCB is drawn.
*silkscreen adding the following:
**version no.
**organization name
**board name
*Netlist is ran and got a no error result.
*DRC is ran and got a no error result.
*Overall is checked.
*generate Gerber and send to [[PCB Manufacturers]].

=== Manual Design ===
Somepeople do this with layout on clear film or by directly drawing on a circuit board, of even by scratching, grinding.... For now let them google this.

=== Homebrew fabrication ===
Before exploring these techniques, you should understand your options with regard to services such as BatchPCB.com, ExpressPCB.com and PCB123.com. Being able to have several boards fabbed in 2 days for $59 (for example) makes it harder to justify the hassle of etching your own boards at home.
* [http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html "How to make really really good homemade PCBs"] by Mike Harrison 2007
* [[Toner Transfer]] -- This method involves laser printing your PCB design onto paper, then transferring toner onto copper-clad board.
* [[Photoetching]] -- Exposure of PCB designs onto photosensitized copper-clad board.
* [[Chemical Etchants]]
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pcb-gcode "Mechanically etching or milling PCBs. No chemicals!"] -- Use your CNC router/mill to make PC boards.
* [http://openfarmtech.org/index.php?title=Routed_Circuit_Board Open Source Ecology wiki: "Routed Circuit Board"]
* [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/ Yahoo group: Homebrew_PCBs · Homebrew Printed Circuit Boards]
* [http://reprap.org/wiki/Automated_Circuitry_Making RepRap wiki] has details on how to use open-source RepRap-based desktop routers to cut PCBs out of copper-clad board.
* [http://www.pabr.org/pcbprt/pcbprt.en.html "pcbprt - Experiments in inkjet PCB printing"] by pascal. Some inkjet printers can print directly CD and DVD. Pascal explains step-by-step how to get those printers to print on copper-clad FR4 to make reasonably good etch resist. The main trick seems to be baking the freshly-printed boards to dry out the ink and get the dyes/pigments to stick to the copper -- otherwise the water-based ink immediately washes off as soon as you drop the board in the etch tank.
* A few people have made "DIY Flex Circuits".[http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/diy-flex-circuits]

=== Commercial PCB fabrication ===
* [[Submitting PCB's for fabrication]] -- Common processes for submitting PCB's for fabrication.
* [[PCB Manufacturers]]
* [http://diydrones.com/profiles/blog/show?id=705844%3ABlogPost%3A30196 "PCB fabbing advice"] by Chris Anderson 2008

==Best Practices for PCB Layout==
===Theory===
*Provide the easiest path (lowest impedance) for current to flow
**Return current tends to flow directly under signal trace (for PCB having ground plane)
**Inductance increases with length of traces
**Inductance increases with the area enclosed by signal trace and ground
*Prevent digital currents from contaminating analog currents
*Decouple high speed components
*Use ground loop avoidance tehniques

===Design===
*Partition PCB into "analog stuff" and "digital stuff".
*No digital signal traces should cross over analog ground, and vice versa
*For components having both analog and digital signals (e.g. ADC), orientate components so that the analog signal traces goes only over the analog ground plane, and digital signal traces goes only over the digital ground plane
*AGND and DGND of ADC must have a small impedance (i.e. separated by short distance)
*Add decoupling capacitors close to Vcc and DGND of ICs
*Add ferrite beads and capacitors (PI-filter) to power rail for low-pass filtering (reduce ripples).

===Routing===
*Place fixed components first (components location that cannot be changed, e.g. connectors, buttons, etc)
* Make installing parts onto the PCB fast:
** Fastest: No through-hole parts. All surface-mount parts on the bottom side.
** Next-fastest: All through-hole parts on the top side. All surface-mount parts on the bottom side. ( [http://www.psocdeveloper.com/articles/apple-mighty-mouse-spills-its-guts/the-capacitive-touch-sense-buttons-pcb.html "Mighty Mouse Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)"] )
*Separate components into groups
**Digital signals only
**Analog signals only
**Digital and analog (Mixed) signals
**High current devices (e.g. led backlight for LCD/buzzer)
*Do not partition ground into analog and digital planes.
**Use a single ground plane. See the "[[#References | Grounding References]]" below.
*Orientate components that have mixed signals according to the orientation of the ground planes, and straddle components over DGND and AGND
*Place digital only components over DGND
*Place analog only components over AGND
[[File:Pcb layout.png|thumb|800px|center|Grounding Example for PCB]]
*Decoupling capacitors should be as close to the ICs as possible
Vcc
| | | | |
+-----------+
-------+-+--|-+---------|-------- Vcc
|C| | IC |
-------+-+--|---------+-|-------- GND
+-----------+
| | | | |
GND
*Lay critical (noise-sensitive) traces first (e.g. crystal, analog signals)
**As short as possible
**Use 45<sup>o</sup> turnings instead of 90<sup>o</sup>
*Paired signal traces (e.g. TX+, TX- in ethernet chips) should run parallel along each other
TX+ -----\
TX- ----\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \------------ TX+
\------------- TX-

===References===
*Grounding
**[http://www.hottconsultants.com/pdf_files/june2001pcd_mixedsignal.pdf Partitioning and Layout of a Mixed Signal PCB]: The importance of single ground plane and partitioning of analog and digital signal trace
** [http://techref.massmind.org/techref/noises.htm#unsplit_ground Massmind Techref: "Unsplit ground"]
**[http://www.hottconsultants.com/pdf_files/ground.pdf Ground- A Path For Current Flow]: The importance of decoupling capacitors
**[http://www.ece.msstate.edu/courses/ece4512/des1_syllabus/current/PCB_Layout_Tips.ppt PCB Layout Tips]: a power point presentation
**[http://pemclab.cn.nctu.edu.tw/w3news/%E6%8A%80%E8%A1%93%E5%A0%B1%E5%91%8A/TR-040.%E9%9B%BB%E8%B7%AF%E6%9D%BF%E4%BD%88%E5%B1%80%E5%8E%9F%E5%89%87/html/layout.htm PCB Layout Guidelines]: in Traditional Chinese
*Crystals and Oscillators
**[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc8128.pdf AVR186]: Best Practices for the PCB layout of Oscillators
*ADC & Analog Filters
**[http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/adn007.pdf ADN007]: Techniques that Reduce System Noise in ADC Circuits
**[http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/ADN010.pdf ADN010]: Predict the Repeatability of your ADC to the BIT
**[http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00699b.pdf AD699]: Anti-Aliasing, Analog Filters for Data Acquisition Systems
**[http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00682c.pdf AN682]: Using Single Supply Operational Amplifiers in Embedded Systems
**[http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00990a.pdf AN990]: Analog Sensor Conditioning Circuits - An Overview
*EMC
**[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc1619.pdf AVR040]: EMC Design Considerations
**[http://www.freescale.com/files/microcontrollers/doc/app_note/AN1705.pdf AN1705]: Noise Reduction Techniques for Microcontroller-Based Systems
** [http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/4988.pdf AN898: EMC general information]
** [http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/4967.pdf AN901: EMC guidelines for microcontroller-based applications]
** [http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/9914.pdf AN1709: EMC design guide for ST microcontrollers]

== Circuit construction (Prototyping - Other than custom PCB) ==

* [[Solderless protoboard]] ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breadboard Wikipedia:Breadboard]) ([http://www.best-microcontroller-projects.com/prototyping.html a simple example with a small microcontroller])
* [[Point-to-point]] ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point-to-point_construction Wikipedia:Point-to-point construction])
* [[Wirewrap]] ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap Wikipedia:Wire Wrap])
* [[Dead bug style]]
* [[Manhattan style]] aka [http://ciphersbyritter.com/RADELECT/BREADBD/BREADBD.HTM "A Modern Breadboarding Technology: Insulating Pads Soldered to a Ground Plane"]
* [http://www.qrp.pops.net/ugly.asp "Ugly Construction"] (like deadbug... )
[http://www.techlib.com/electronics/construction.html "Construction Ideas"] has nice photographs of the above circuit construction techniques.
[[http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/protostyles/proto_styles.htm "Effects Building Techniques"] by R.G. Keen 1999 reviews, compares, and contrasts these techniques for circuit construction -- also a few more.

* [[Stripboard]] (Veroboard): ([http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard Wikipedia:stripboard].)

== Soldering techniques ==

* [[Basic soldering]] -- How to use a soldering iron.
* Surface Mount
** [[Skillet reflow]]
** [[Toaster oven reflow]]
** [[Hot air soldering]]
** [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:WillWare/Homebrew_surface-mount_construction A few different SMT assembly methods] that you can do at home on a cheap budget
* [[Rework]] -- Techniques for fixing mistakes, or for adding new features to a board that ''almost'' does what you want.
** [http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/302_jumper%20wires.html official NASA recommendations for adding discrete wiring ("jumper wires") to PCBs]

(Have you seen this [http://hackaday.com/2007/06/04/cnc-solder-pastepick-n-place/ CNC solder paste/pick n place] ?)
''Hackaday has lots of other similar articles: [http://hackaday.com/?s=solder+paste search hackaday for "solder paste"]''

== [[Hardware tool]]s ==
A directory of [[hardware tool]]s that you may find useful.

== [[software tool]]s ==
== Software design tools ==

A directory of [[software tool]]s that you may find useful.

== [[PC-Microcontroller Communications]] ==

Discussion of the various methods to connect a microcontroller or embedded system to a PC...

== Embedded System Programming and Testing ==
To add to the confusion programming in embedded system can mean a person writing a program or a device called a programmer "burning" a program into a chip. This section is for the "burning" meaning of programming.

* Many systems use [[JTAG]] for programming and testing. (Such as [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Atmel_AVR Atmel AVR embedded systems]]).
* Other systems use some other kind of in-circuit programming.
* Some people use [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Embedded_Systems/Bootloaders_and_Bootsectors bootloaders] to make re-programming a little quicker.

-- not sure that this next one is not misplaced ? --
''We're talking about "programming and testing" ? What else do you use to test op-amp circuits?''

* Many people use an [[oscilloscope]] ([[o'scope]]). See [[oscilloscope]] for a list of Keith has made a list of low-cost o'scopesl [http://www.techtravels.org/amiga/amigablog/?p=167 "PC USB logic analyzers that cost under $1000."] for a list of low-cost logic analyzers.

Humans writing a program almost always do it in a language. Here is a section that discusses some of these languages: [[Programming Languages]]

== driving motors ==

See [[Stepper Motor Tester]] and [[motor driver]].

== Enclosure ==

* The Earth Signal should short to whole metal Case
* Digital/Analog GND should separate to this Earth Signal, and should connect a Y-cap. to filter the noise between them.
* Attention: do not place near between Earth Signal and Digital/Analog GND, otherwise some spark come out, and affect your whole system.
* ''See [[enclosures]]''.

== Misc Tips Tricks ==

[[Misc Tips Tricks]]

== Further Reading ==

* [http://airborn.com.au/method/ "Electronics Design" from Airborn] gives an overview of the complete process: specification, (schematic) circuit design, layout, prototypes, firmware, pilot run, production.
* EDA electronic design automation software is a subset of CAD in general. Is there a wiki that discusses CAD in general? Until I find it, I'm going to post these tools here: "Google SketchUp is a powerful yet easy-to-learn 3D software tool" http://sketchup.google.com/ ; "Inkscape is the best tool for SVG standard vector graphics" http://wiki.inkscape.org/ ; Visual Wiki http://visualwiki.org/
* [http://www.national.com/rap/Story/0,1562,18,00.html "What's All This Ground Noise Stuff, Anyhow?"] by Robert A. Pease
* [http://www.elecdesign.com/Articles/ArticleID/6150/6150.html "What's All This Teflon Stuff, Anyhow?"] by Robert A. Pease -- explains a situation using lots of metal (instead of carefully insulating everything with lots of Teflon) causes less noise. Also mentions "why am I telling you all of these details? If I design a tester with greatly improved performance to help me test a really high-performance product, why should I tell all our competitors so that anybody in the world can test their products using the improved tester? Why should I give away all of these hard-earned secrets?" and gives some very good reasons.
* [http://groups.google.to/group/sci.electronics.design/browse_thread/thread/889153f0e77b1718/fcaac532bb6d4b12?fwc=1 sci.electronics.design: EDN: Measuring Nanoamperes] discusses some ways to measure extremely small currents.
* [http://www.millpcbs.com/ MillPCBs.com for techniques on using a small cnc machine to mill PCB's]
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs]
* [http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs]
* [http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc]
* Dave McGuire says "The notion that through-hole soldering is easier than soldering surface-mount devices is, and always has been, [http://archives.seul.org/geda/user/Aug-2004/msg00175.html a myth.]" (Now, about keeping all the look-alike passive parts straight... :) )
* [http://www.instructables.com/id/Intro-into-SMD-Soldering/ Intro into SMD Soldering]
* [http://PMinMO.com/ PMinMO.com is THE PLACE for DIY CNC driver information]
* [http://uptownmaker.blogspot.com/2009/07/18-essential-skills-for-maker.html 18 Essential Skills for a Maker]

== Environmental Issues ==

see [[better for the environment]].

[[Category:Techniques]]